“CANTERBURY” CROCHET CAPELET PONCHO
PURCHASE THE AD-FREE PDF OF THIS CROCHET CAPELET PONCHO PATTERN ON ETSY, RAVELRY or LOVECRAFTS (or scroll down for the free pattern).
I just love when comfort and form meet funtion and this Canterbury Crochet Capelet Poncho is a pattern which does just that! It is a stylish way to keep the chill away and what more could any girl ask for?
When I was looking through my yarn possibilities as this design was formulating in my head, I came across a few extra large balls of Red Heart Comfort in Cream Tweed, and while this yarn is difficult to find now, any 4wt yarn will do for this project and there are lots of other tweed options out there, if you wanted to go that route. That being said, wouldn’t it also just look so delish in a solid forest green or burgundy?
You may have gathered by now I like to try to keep things as seamless as possible and when I’m working in the round like this, I try to design things in a continuous spiral. That’s just what I’ve done here with the Canterbury Crochet Capelet Poncho. It is a top down poncho made in one continuous spiral with increases around the shoulders. The neck portion and hem portion are in a ribbing style with the center/body portion kept simple.
As always, I design size-inclusive and this pattern comes in XS/S, M/L, XL/2XL, 3XL/4XL and in 5XL. It is customizable in terms of the body length and you could also increase the neck portion to make it a turtleneck.
Whether you’re sitting by the campfire, shopping or doing yard work, this capelet pattern fits all occasions! I hope you enjoy this Canterbury Crochet Capelet Poncho and have fun all season long in it.
For more crochet to keep warm, see my Chinook Pullover Poncho, my Bonavista Chunky Capelet and my Beginner Poncho.
PURCHASE THE AD-FREE PDF OF THIS CROCHET CAPELET PONCHO PATTERN ON ETSY, RAVELRY or LOVECRAFTS (or scroll down for the free pattern).
| SUPPLY LIST |
| 6.5mm hook Any Category 4 yarn (Used: Red Heart Comfort in Cream Fleck) Approximate Yardage: XS/S:535Y/489M M/L: 633Y/578M XL/2XL: 729Y/667M 3XL/4XL: 840Y/768M 5XL: 970Y/886M Stitch Markers Scissors Tapestry Needle |
| STITCHES / ABBREVIATIONS |
| **All stitches are in North American terms** YO – yarn over CH – chain BB – back bump (of a foundation chain) ST – stitch SL ST – slip stitch SL ST 3rdL – slip stitch in the 3rd loop SC – single crochet HDC – half double crochet HDC3rdL – half double crochet in the 3rd loop |
| SIZE |
| XS through 5XL |
| FINISHED MEASUREMENTS |
| ** This Canturbury crochet caplet poncho is measured from top of neck to bottom hem (height) and side-to-side (for full circumference, just double the width number). This piece fits slightly bigger than true fit but also has some stretch. XS/S: 20” H x 22” W M/L: 21.5” H x 26” W XL/2XL: 23” H x 30” W 3XL/4XL: 25” H x 36” W 5XL: 27” H x 42” W |
| GAUGE |
| 10 ST x 7.5 Rows = 4” x 4” (using in HDC flat rows – the project is done in the round but for the purposes of swatching, do HDC in flat rows) |
| DIFFICULTY LEVEL |
| Advanced Beginner |
| PATTERN AND SIZING NOTES |
| – For this Canturbury Crochet Caplet Poncho, you must have knowledge of: working in the round, working in continuous spirals (not joined rounds), working in the BB of the foundation chain, increasing, slip stitches, half double crochet and working in the 3rd loop of the half double crochet. – This crochet capelet pattern is made as one piece starting from the top and working down. It is worked in one continuous spiral and does not have joined rounds. – You can stagger your increases to create a more rounded ribbed section or you can stack your increases if you don’t know how to stagger them. – My suggestion is to always mark the 1st ST in a round so you can keep better track of where you are. – The stitch count is given in parentheses ( ) at the end of each round. |
CANTERBURY CROCHET CAPELET PONCHO (worked as 1 piece):
NECK AND INCREASE PORTION:
CH 60 FOR ALL SIZES OF THIS CAPELET PATTERN, SL ST to join to the first CH making sure your CH isn’t twisted
Round 1: CH 1 & SC in to that same CH (mark stitch), HDC in the BB of all other CH’s in the round, do not join (60)
Round 2: Starting in your marked ST, HDC3rdL in each ST around (no increases), do not join (60)
Rounds 3 to 11: Repeat Round 2 (60)
Round 12: In your marked ST, HDC3rdL x 2 in that ST, and then HDC3rdL in the next 5 ST’s then repeat [HDC3rdL x 2 in 1 ST, HDC3rdL x 5] for the remainder of the round, do not join (70)
Round 13: In your marked ST, HDC3rdL x 2 in that ST, and then HDC3rdL in the next 6 ST’s then repeat [HDC3rdL x 2 in 1 ST, HDC3rdL x 6] for the remainder of the round, do not join (80)
Round 14: In your marked ST, HDC3rdL x 2 in that ST, and then HDC3rdL in the next 7 ST’s then repeat [HDC3rdL x 2 in 1 ST, HDC3rdL x 7] for the remainder of the round, do not join (90)
Round 15: In your marked ST, HDC3rdL x 2 in that ST, and then HDC3rdL in the next 8 ST’s then repeat [HDC3rdL x 2 in 1 ST, HDC3rdL x 8] for the remainder of the round, do not join (100)
**SIZE XS/S SKIP TO BODY PORTION AT END OF ROUND 15**
Round 16: In your marked ST, HDC3rdL x 2 in that ST, and then HDC3rdL in the next 9 ST’s then repeat [HDC3rdL x 2 in 1 ST, HDC3rdL x 9] for the remainder of the round, do not join (110)
Round 17: In your marked ST, HDC3rdL x 2 in that ST, and then HDC3rdL in the next 10 ST’s then repeat [HDC3rdL x 2 in 1 ST, HDC3rdL x 10] for the remainder of the round, do not join (120)
**SIZE M/L SKIP TO BODY PORTION AT END OF ROUND 17**
Round 18: In your marked ST, HDC3rdL x 2 in that ST, and then HDC3rdL in the next 11 ST’s then repeat [HDC3rdL x 2 in 1 ST, HDC3rdL x 11] for the remainder of the round, do not join (130)
Round 19: In your marked ST, HDC3rdL x 2 in that ST, and then HDC3rdL in the next 12 ST’s then repeat [HDC3rdL x 2 in 1 ST, HDC3rdL x 12] for the remainder of the round, do not join (140)
**SIZE XL/2XL SKIP TO BODY PORTION AT END OF ROUND 19**
Round 20: In your marked ST, HDC3rdL x 2 in that ST, and then HDC3rdL in the next 13 ST’s then repeat [HDC3rdL x 2 in 1 ST, HDC3rdL x 13] for the remainder of the round, do not join (150)
Round 21: In your marked ST, HDC3rdL x 2 in that ST, and then HDC3rdL in the next 14 ST’s then repeat [HDC3rdL x 2 in 1 ST, HDC3rdL x 14] for the remainder of the round, do not join (160)
Round 22: In your marked ST, HDC3rdL x 2 in that ST, and then HDC3rdL in the next 15 ST’s then repeat [HDC3rdL x 2 in 1 ST, HDC3rdL x 15] for the remainder of the round, do not join (170)
**SIZE 3XL’4XL SKIP TO BODY PORTION AT END OF ROUND 22**
Round 23: In your marked ST, HDC3rdL x 2 in that ST, and then HDC3rdL in the next 16 ST’s then repeat [HDC3rdL x 2 in 1 ST, HDC3rdL x 16] for the remainder of the round, do not join (180)
Round 24: In your marked ST, HDC3rdL x 2 in that ST, and then HDC3rdL in the next 17 ST’s then repeat [HDC3rdL x 2 in 1 ST, HDC3rdL x 17] for the remainder of the round, do not join (190)
Round 25: In your marked ST, HDC3rdL x 2 in that ST, and then HDC3rdL in the next 18 ST’s then repeat [HDC3rdL x 2 in 1 ST, HDC3rdL x 18] for the remainder of the round, do not join (200)
**SIZE 5XL CONTINUE TO BODY PORTION AT END OF ROUND 25**
BODY PORTION:
**If you want to line up then END of the HDC3rdL ribbing portion with the tail on your starting chain so that all changes are in the back, then continue as many HDC3rdL’s as needed until you line them up and then THIS ST becomes your new 1st ST in each round using your stitch marker.
Body Portion Round 1: In your marked ST, HDC in each ST in the round, do not join
Each size will have the following number of ST’s in the body portion rounds:
XS/S: 100
M/L: 120
XL/2XL: 140
3XL/4XL: 170
5XL: 200
Body portion Rounds 2 to 24: Repeat Body Portion Round 1
BOTTOM HEM:
**If you want to line up the END of the Body Portion rounds with the tail on your starting chain and the end of your HDC3rdL ribbing portion of the neck and shoulders, then do as many HDC’s as needed until you line them up, then THIS ST becomes your new 1st ST in each round using your ST marker.
Bottom Hem Rounds 1 to 9: In your marked ST, HDC3rdL in each ST in the round, do not join
**At the end of Round 9, do as many HDC3rdL as required to line up with your starting chain tail and all your changes
Bottom Hem Round 10: SL ST 3rdL in each ST in the round and at the end, YO, pull through and tie off then weave in ends.
TIP: Since we’re working in a spiral instead of in joined rounds, here is something I did to make the stitch changes a little less noticeable: Take a 3” piece of yarn and cinch together the 1st ST of a change with the stitch below it and tie together on the inside. It just makes that change a little less noticeable and I really do like the seamlessness of this piece.
VOILA, a charming crochet capelet pattern fit for strolls through the countryside or lunch on the patio on a chilly day!
